Lake Ohrid

After a short while fantasising about white sand beaches on Corfu, we got back to reality and steered our compass north west to the Macedonian border. It appeared that the news reports of the state of emergency we were reading were at least a day old, and if there was to be any trouble at the border we could always divert at the last moment. Fortunately that moment never appeared as we drove over the border with ease, and following a tentative query as to the state of the fires ("no problem, no problem!"), the handing over of E50 to purchase additional insurance and a slightly dodgy Euro for Dinar dealing, we were treated to a broad smile and a very genuine "Welcome to Macedonia!" from the border guard.

Smoke in the hills

We were headed to Bitola, and along the way we could see the tell tale signs of smoke billowing from the hillsides, but as we approached the town evidence of anything more serious had all be cleared up and the citizens of Bitola were going about their regular early evening activities. The camping ground we were heading for never materialised, and with daylight still on our side we decided to push on through to our main Macedonian highlight, Lake Ohrid.

On the shores of Lake Ohrid

At 294m, Lake Ohrid is the deepest lake in the Balkans, and also the oldest in Europe. You can see that it is also a very beautiful place indeed, with calm, crystalline waters stretching out along the Byzantian church strewn south eastern Macedonian shores and down to Albania. Although, it would have been even more beautiful minus the absolute hordes of holidaymakers escaping the heat. Add to this traffic jams, 10 year old techno music blaring from the numerous "beach bars", overcrowding of the rather primitive camping grounds and you may begin to get a clearer picture of its beauty in the heat of July.

It was quite an assault to the senses after the last few days lazing in the likewise calm and crystalline waters of a semi deserted beach in Paradise. Still very beautiful Lake Ohrid remains. We did manage to squeeze in some moments of calm amongst the chaos, but were nevertheless really pleased to see so many Macedonians out there enjoying themselves in the beauty of their own country.

Hmmm, that'd be a right then

You have been warned!

Sveti Naum monastery near the Albanian border

Checking out those Albanians

It's a funny place Macedonia. Home of Alexander the Great, with an equally impressive ancient history, but alas a rather murky more recent one. Being in turns occupied and then carved up all over the place by its more powerful neighbours, then being snaffled up into the post war creation that was Yugoslavia ('Slavs of the South' apparently), it was 1992 before it was able to negotiate (the only fully peaceful) separation from that bind and become fully independent. What has since ensued is a running argument with Greece over it's right to use the name Macedonia, a name which Greece uses itself to name its northern province. This pressure forced it to use the name Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, or FYROM, and Greece instigating all sorts of trade embargos, but I think those Greeks are just going to have to stop being so childish and grow up. Who wants to be known as the Former Yugoslav Republic of anywhere??

Exactly!

Back to the lake then. Despite all the crowds, it is truly beautiful. The highlight of our visit was a sunset boat trip out along the shores of the old town of Ohrid to catch a glimpse of the iconic Sveti Jovan, a 13th century church perched right on the cliff edge. The water was so clear that even at this distance from the shore you could gaze over the side of the boat and peer right down into its depths. It was just so great to see so many people out on the water enjoying such beautiful surrounds.

Escaping the heat

Eric with Sveti Jovan

Sveti Jovan at sunset

SJ